Mooney Mountain Guides

New Hampshire Ice Sampler!

2012-01-27T06:18:00.005-05:00

Jerry and I climbed in Crawford Notch and Kinsman Notch Mon thru Wed and on our final day we climbed at two areas Rumney then Newfound Lake. Our main focus on this trip was for Jerry to gain the skills and confidence to lead and protect ice climbs, the sub focus was to climb as much as we could on the steeps.

This weeks weather has been fickle, cold then rain, more cold, now today its dumping rain out there. Despite this changing weather conditions are quite good at the shaded north facing areas.

The upcoming forecast looks to be staying with the same pattern, moderate daytime temperatures (20 to 35) all next week.

Enjoy the ice while its in shape as who knows what the conditions next month will be.

The Luck of the Irish - a beautiful climb.

Jerry climbing the technical route - Hanging by a Moment.

Swapping ice leads at Kinsman Notch.

Jerry climbing solid on the sharp end at Lost in the Forest.

Bringing the second to the top.

Willeys Slide on a wintry day.

A longer pitch - Jerry taking it to the top of Willeys Slide.

Elephants Head Gully in very good condition.

The steeps at Rumney, Jerry climbing Franky Lee at the Meadows.

Barbados another steep ice line.

Newfound Lake in very thick condition.

It was an awesome week on the ice. As you can see Jerry and I climbed a variety of routes at different areas.

Thank you Jerry

Art Mooney

Frankenstein Ice

2012-01-24T05:36:00.005-05:00

The forecast for Saturday was for snow. Knowing this, I had decided to park in the lower parking lot the night before. I met Yani, Anna, Frank, and Justin at their Bed and Breakfast just in time for a warm blueberry muffin and a hot cup of coffee. Not a bad way to start an ice climbing day. The snow was flying and we had to brush off our cars before we drove to the cliffs. As we were getting ready to start hiking, about 20 vehicles drove right past us to the upper lot. My heart sank a little. A gentlemen and his partner rolled the window down and asked if the upper lot was full. I did not know so he decided to go check it out. Moments later 10 cars were backing down the icy snow covered road for the lower lot. I guessed the lot was full. Yani, Anna, Frank, Justin, and myself marched past the throngs of ice climbers. Our early start had paid off.

We decided to warm up on the Trestle Cut Slabs where we got two ropes set-up. One lower angle climb and one steeper pitch. After everyone had their fill of the two routes, we gave our climbs to a neighboring party that we befriended, and made snow angels, for there happened to be a few feet of fresh powder at the base of the climbs.

We were looking for something a little more challenging, but it seemed that every ounce of ice was occupied this uncharacteristically crowded day. So as we were headed to do the first pitch of Pegasus, another set of friends we had made that day offered us the line they were on. This time the climbing was a little steeper. And we even got to do a little mixed climbing on thin ice and use rock features for upward progress.

Thanks to Yani, Anna, Justin, and Frank, we had a great day ice climbing despite the crowds. It's always awesome to spend the day with good folks and swing some ice tools.

Thanks again for a great day! Enjoy the photos.

Matt Ritter MMG Guide

A Remote Climb - The Drool of the Beast !

2012-01-20T16:15:00.006-05:00

Patrick and I made the journey to check out the Drool today. We were pleasantly surprised at the amount of ice on the route. It was a technical climb protected with stubbies, rock gear and a variety of old fixed pro. To advance one must wind their way up the route as the thin yellow runnel of ice cork screws its way up the wall. The area is spectacular - climbing high on a remote crag above Greely Ponds.

The Drool.

Patrick looking sharp - decked out in Mammut's top products.

Arriving at the base after a short bushwack.

Getting started on the thin moves and placing rock protection.

Enjoyed a great day with Patrick off the beaten path today.

Art Mooney

Rumney Ice - In good shape now.

2012-01-17T15:56:00.002-05:00

This colder weather has helped the formation of the south facing routes at Rumney. Matt and I had a few hours free so we thought we would give it a try. Franky Lee and Barbados were in sporty but good condition today. We left as it started to rain which will be followed again by colder temperatures. This may be good news for the ice in all areas.

Matt ready to descend Franky Lee. We climbed right of center then the left side at the top.

Matt finding some pro on the start of Barbados.

Matt again winding one in high on Barbados.

Art Mooney

Icy Day at Newfound Lake.

2012-01-15T06:07:00.002-05:00

Dave and Kevin joined Mooney Mountain Guides for a day of ice climbing. Daves folks have a home on Newfound Lake so we decided to take a short drive and approach to climb at the ledges area. The routes are all in good shape with four main lines ready to go. The sudden plummet of temperatures made the ice hard and brittle. Our day started with a refresher of skills then we climbed two routes called Bloodline and Duofold.

The Lake is unfrozen quite unusual at this time of year.

Our first top rope as skills were learned and refreshed.

Look at this - climbing with out tools - this puts the focus on much needed footwork.

The intentional rope offset to climb side by side.

Duofold has a steep challenging curtain of ice. Another great day on the ice.

Thanks to Dave and Kevin.

Art Mooney

Kinsman Notch Ice

2012-01-09T20:07:00.002-05:00

Climbed with Ken and Ashwini at Kinsman this weekend. Ken was looking for a tune up on the ice and Ashwini is just getting started climbing. We were able to mix the two up and we climbed ice all day. Kinsman is in very good condition at this time. The routes were well formed and the ice was soft and sticky.

Ken getting ready to send the steeper line.

Ashwini learning the movements on the ice.

Cave view on the center route.

Ashwini working up to the steeps on Grade 3 ice.

Ken showing good style with new boots and crampons.

Thanks ken and Ashwini for a great day.

Art Mooney

Newfound Lake Ice Conditions Update

2012-01-06T17:51:00.004-05:00

The ice was in good shape at Newfound Lake today. All routes were leadable with good protection. The ice was soft and wet and may change with Saturdays warm up. Lets hope for colder temps in the coming days.

Overview of area from road.

A very wide Bloodline - numerous options.

Duo fold in fine shape.

Pike line - looks as good as it climbed very nice.

Art Mooney

Phat Ice at Kinsman!!!

2012-01-04T17:03:00.004-05:00

What a difference a couple of cold days and nights will make. Kinsman was in great shape today. Aubrey and I found a couple of interesting and challenging lines to climb that do not come into shape very often. The day warmed up to 10 degrees and the ice did soften up a bit. All in all it was great times with Aubrey on a cold day in the notch.

Snow covered Cannon Cliff.
Very nice line.

Pot of Gold needs a few more days, the ramp looked good.

We climbed this to the top, fun stemming of the tree to gain the upper slab.

The middle flow has lots of options.

Aubrey finding some sticky wet ice on a very cold morning.

Ice then rock what a fun route.

Thank Aubrey for another great day.

Art Mooney

Mt Washington - New Years Day

2012-01-02T17:05:00.005-05:00

New Years Day was an absolutely perfect day on the mountain. I had a great time meeting and climbing with Brett, Massimo, Jaison, and Russel from New York. I can't think of a better way to start off the New Year than a climb to the summit of Mt Washington.

The weather was mostly clear, with moderate temperatures and a light breeze. The cloud formations improved the already amazing views in every direction. All the summit buildings and towers were encased in rime ice and snow. This combination of events led to a truly spectacular day on the mountain.

The team on the steep section of Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail.

Russell and Jaison entertaining us on a refueling break.

Once above tree line the views kept getting better.

Climbing above the Lake of the Clouds Hut.

Southern Presidential Ridge in the background.

Russell closing in on the summit.

On top of Mt Washington.

Summit buildings encased in snow and ice.

Another beautiful day above tree line.

Art Mooney

Icing Around in Crawford Notch!

2011-12-31T06:35:00.005-05:00

Great ice climbing conditions were found in Crawford Notch yesterday. Matt, Phil and I took Alphonzo's lead and went to Willard. He posted a few enticing pictures on NEIce the day prior.

Matt was hungry for steep ice so he chose the Great Madness. The route was in good shape, very steep and candled ice but that is the norm for the route. After the Madness we could not pass up the beautiful looking Snot Rocket. The route was in the best shape that I have seen, very fun technical climbing up to a cool belay cave.

Matt gearing up the mind for the steep Great Madness.

Phil happy to be getting out for his first time.

Matt in the business - winding in a screw.

Great Madness NEI 5 Crawford Notch NH.

Bonus climb - the Snot Rocket in great condition.

Great day out with the MMG guides.

Happy New Year,

Art Mooney

Newfound Conditions

2011-12-29T15:48:00.003-05:00

It will take another week for the ice to fully form at Newfound. The temperatures need to drop and stay cold for a few days or more for these route to build thick enough to climb and place pro. Right now the ice is hollow, thin and unbonded in places. From the reports the best ice to be found is in Crawford, Franconia Notches and Huntingtons - Tuckermans Ravines right now.

Red Headwall coming into shape.

Bloodline has open spots with lots of water running. Needs colder temps.

Duo fold - looks thin and unbonded, lots of water running.

Art Mooney

The Big Prize - A Presidential Traverse.

2011-12-21T14:02:00.004-05:00

The Presidential Traverse is one of the most sought after mountaineering objectives in New Hampshire's White Mountains. Last Thursday Bill, James and Dan made a 17 hour drive from Indiana to meet and climb with MMG guide Jim Gagne. The goal was to complete a three day, 21 mile Presidential traverse over the weekend.

It is not often that one can plan a traverse like this and arrive in NH with a good forecast for the three planned days. The temperatures were cold but there were no storms in the area. The second day which is the longest day was clear, with almost no wind which made it perfect for this exposed and committing part of the traverse.

Looking fresh and strong as they reached the summit at mid day on the traverse.

Trail conditions are quite tough as we have had little to no snow. The team toughed it out and were able to completed the traverse in three days.

Thanks to the Indiana boys for joining Mooney Mountain Guides on this great trip. Thanks to Jim Gagne for another successful traverse. There are only few guides in the area who are as excited as Jim to take on a project like this.

Art Mooney

Monday on the Black Dike.

2011-12-20T15:31:00.006-05:00

The news is out, and The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff is in!

Paul and I met in Plymouth at 6am, got on 93 headed to Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch State Park. This is what we live for. Springing out of bed, strong coffee, approaching ice climbing objectives in the dark, sun rising on cold cliffs, connecting with the mountain environment, and spending time with cool folks.

Climbing in the winter is different. Rock climbs are always "in shape." Ice climbs are more fickle, being dependent on a wide variety of weather conditions. This is part of the allure. We wait, we watch, we sometimes even hike for an hour to find unsuitable climbing conditions. We speculate, and pray for cold weather. We hope for rain followed by extreme cold. We drive very slowly with our necks craned out of our vehicles, getting tailgated by busy commuters.

We are essentially "ice hunters" fanatically searching out our next opportunity to suffer, smile, and ascend tannin stained icicles dripping off of windy, spindrift spilling granite crags.

As we headed north on 93 we passed a guide friend of mine that I knew was gunning for the same frozen paradise. I told Paul to drive faster. Luckily we got there first. We had the 'right of way' on a climb that acts as a funnel for falling ice, therefor, only allows a single climbing team at a time. This is winter and the race is on. Next time we may not be the first in line, forcing us to change our plans, flexibility is the name of the game and adventure is our vice.

Every once in a while we get to have perfect days in the mountains like Monday on The Black Dike. Nice work Paul! You crushed!

Matt Ritter

MMG Guide

A True Presidential Contender.

2011-12-19T08:11:00.006-05:00

Mt Washington - known as the home to the worlds worst weather. Holder of the world record wind speed for many years at 231 mile per hour, land of extreme cold temperatures down to -minus 46, can have multiple days of hurricane force winds and frequent whiteout conditions.

Today was a different story it was bluebird - clear above with unlimited visibility. We did have a frigid cold air mass on board which kept us moving through out the day. Our breaks were short but needed to fuel our bodies with gu gels, warm drinks and to manage our clothing layers to keep us reasonably dry throughout the climb. We reached the summit at 12:30 with our ascent time coming in at 5 hours.

After a short lunch break we returned to the base via the same route, down the Crawford Path to Lake of the Clouds then down the steep Ammnoosuc Trail to the Marshfield Cog Station. We arrived at our cars just as the sun was setting.

Mt Washington from the Ammonoosuc Trail.

Steve and Chris just below the summit buildings.

Adel taking a break to fuel up the body.

Mark and Chris in the zone.

Great times with good friends on the mountain.

Steve moving smoothly as he arrives at Lakes.

Steve and Mark bearing down for the final push to the summit.

MMG Guides Matt and Art with the team on the summit.

Beautiful lighting at the end of the day. Golden skies to the west and the alpenglow over the Presidential range to the east.

Thanks for a great climb.

Art Mooney

Its coming soon!!!

2011-12-15T21:39:00.004-05:00

Expect the colder weather next week to start forming routes like this.

Meet Up on Mt Lafayette.

2011-12-13T20:22:00.010-05:00

This weekend a few members of the Boston Meet Up group came up to NH for some winter mountaineering activities on Mt Welsh and Mt Lafayette. The photos are from Matt during the spectacular day they all had in the mountains last Sunday. Enjoy

We chose the Greenleaf Trail for our ascent of Mt. Lafayette. Here is Ashwini, Ken, and Julia at the trailhead, where the elevation is 1200 feet. In the background is Eagle Cliff with Eagle Pass on its right side. From the start the trail sidecuts a boulder strewn hillside before gaining the impressive pass at 1.5 miles. Eagle Pass is at an elevation of 3000 feet with granite walls smattered with ice on either side.

In 2.7 miles we reached the Greenleaf Hut, elevation 4245 feet. Here we earned our first real views of our objective after gaining 3045 feet over 2.7 miles. Thats 1127 feet per mile, which feels a lot like mountain climbing! Pictured here is the "Dream Team" with Mt. Lafeyette still 1015 feet higher, and the Franconia Ridge in the background.

This is a shot of Ken, Ashwini and Julia along the 1.1 miles to the summit from the Greenleaf Hut. Mt. Lincoln and the rest of the Franconia Ridge is their back drop.

After gaining another 1015 feet over 1.1 miles, we reached the summit in perfectly calm conditions and clear skies. 4060 feet of climbing over 3.8 miles... thats pretty close to what we do on Mt. Washington, and we are rewarded with this view, here is Ashwini and Julia with the Presidential Range behind them.

Thanks to Ken, Julia, and Ashwini for another beautiful day in the mountains.

Matt Ritter

MMG Guide

Well worth the wait.

2011-12-12T15:28:00.007-05:00

Matt, Jay and I ventured into the Franconia Notch today with hopes of finding reasonable ice conditions on Cannon. We all were pleasantly surprised as we rounded the base of the Whitney Gilman Ridge and saw a complete runnel of ice all the way up the route. Todays conditions were good but it reminded me of early November type conditions. The temps were below freezing in the shade but on the sunny wall it was a different story. Large slabs of ice were falling all day long in the mid section of the cliff. Let's hope for cold temperatures to come back soon as there is plenty of water flowing and this could freeze into some very fat ice routes.

Black Dike and Fafnir on Monday morning Dec 12.

Matt stepping out onto the steep ground on pitch two.

Trying out my new Petzl Quarks for the first time. An excellent tool for sure.

I am calling this a manchor. Three old pins, two fixed stoppers, and one ice pick driven into the crack.

Jay enjoying the steep technical climbing on the final pitch.

Great day with good friends.

Thanks to Matt and Jay.

Art Mooney

December rock in Vermont!

2011-12-07T16:28:00.014-05:00

All of us at MMG are eager for the ice to come in, and thankfully, it looks like this weekend it will. Still, we’re not above squeezing in a last day on the rock when the opportunity presents itself, and recently, it did! Dennis and I headed out to Vermont’s 82 Crag and were treated to perfect conditions. Warm, crisp and dry rock in the December sunshine! The “82” is one of New England’s best kept secrets, featuring a selection of exceptionally high quality 2 pitch face routes, as well as some of the best hard sport climbs in the region.

It's quite a pretty spot as well.

Here, Dennis focuses on the devious 5.10 crux of Crimp Chimp’s second pitch. This tricky sequence is simply a joy to puzzle out: Perfect rock, great position, and aesthetic movement!

Dennis is pscyched with his send as we head back down for our next route!

The stiff uphill approach tends to keep traffic down, and on this perfect afternoon, there was only one other party at the cliff.

We finished off our day with an ascent of the super classic Year of the Dog. It was gorgeous on the cliff top, belaying Dennis in the evening light. What an afternoon. Now let’s SWING SOME ICE TOOLS!

Derek Doucet, MMG

Mt Washington NH - Overnight at the OBS!!!

2011-12-04T07:29:00.005-05:00

MMG's first overnight trip on Mt Washington was an excellent adventure. with a solid group of 11 climber coming together from NH, PA, NJ, and CT. Our climb to the top was quite rugged as

trail conditions on the mountain are frozen hard with patches of slick black ice hidden under the dusting of snow. We all enjoyed this tough but leisurely paced climb to the top in moderate temperatures. A very unusual experience on a mountain with the Worlds Worst Weather. The summit staff greeted us warmly inside the Observatory. Our chef Nicole served us a plentiful dinner and breakfast which refueled our bodies for our journey down the mountain. This two day Mt Washington Observatory Overnight Trip is a great way to see the mountain in a variety of lighting and weather conditions.

The shadow of Mt Washington in the early morning light.

The older weather station anchored to the mountain with big chains coming down the sides.

The Tip Top House a historical museum open in in summer.

The first rays of the sun rising up over the Atlantic Ocean.

The team on our first day - in celebration for our successful ascent to the top.

Jorge decked out in his new equipment for the mountain traveler.

Matt leading the team through foggy conditions on the summit cone.

Mark and Matthew reaching new heights together.

Nicole with a grand display of homemade foods - salad, chicken soup, vegetarian chile, Lasagne, and a chocolate crazy cake to complete - excellent!

J - Man on the top!

The Philly Team reaching the highest point on the tower of the Observatory.

A rare glimpse of Marty showing his face.

The entire climbing team on the summit.

Our yogi Hope adding one more pose to her "Yoga on the Summits Tour".

Thanks to the Team for a great climb together.

Art Mooney

Huntington's Ravine - Game on for a Day.

2011-11-26T07:24:00.004-05:00

Mike and I met very early and drove up to Mt Washington for our first alpine ice climb of the season. It was a cold clear night so I figured we would be able to scratch our way up one of the north facing routes in Huntington's Ravine. We started our hike up the Tucks trail at 7am. As soon as the sun came over the eastern ridge it rocketed the temperature into the high 30's maybe 40's. With this warm up I decided to climb the left side of Odell's staying clear of any hanging ice above. Surprisingly the ice was thick enough on the first two pitches for ice screws at the belays. Our third pitch took led us to some very fine mixed climbing up beautiful v groove with edges and cracks and adequate protection. We headed out left to the ridge between Odell and south and climbed on turf, heather and some textured granite all the way to the top. We topped out just after mid day in very warm temps but high winds on the alpine gardens.

View of Odell's Gully in the center.

Huntington's Ravine photo showing mid winter conditions.

General conditions and avalanche bulletin board outside the Harvard Cabin.

Mike warming up on the approach to Odell's.

Mike getting started - we stayed clear from the sunny ice on his right side.

This was a real nice pitch - snow covered rock with cracks and edges. The protection was spaced but very solid.

Mike enjoying the final pitches of our climb as we near the alpine garden.

The Alpine Gardens - A barren wind swept landscape.

A bleak looking Tuckerman's Ravine. Very little snow or ice on the wall.

We certainly need a change in this weather pattern. There was very little ice to be climbed in the ravines which by now is usually in good winter condition.

Could be a good week for some late season rock climbing.

Mike thanks for a great day!

Art Mooney

Change of Season - Winter Preparation with MMG.

2011-11-20T07:08:00.015-05:00

Each spring and fall I arrange a day for the MMG Guides to get together. As guides we work alone or in small groups much of the time. It is very important for us to come together and communicate about Mooney Mountain Guides, new procedures, technical information, our past seasons climbs and to prepare for our next seasons adventures. Our main focus of this training day was to practice and review technical skills that may be applied on ice and snow climbs this winter.

The Mooney Mountain Guides Staff.

Bottom left RJ Monton with Oliver, Derek Doucet, and Derrek Anderson.

Top left Jim Gagne, Eric Marshall, Lisa Farmer, Phil Thalheimer, Erik Thatcher, Art Mooney, Alex Teixeira.

Derek instructing the MMG team on parallel rope climbing systems.

Alex demonstrating how to release a loaded belay plate and counter balance rappel.

Erik working on establishing a clean organized belay station.

Alex working through the systems.

Bob mountain climber, outdoor athlete, and the new MMG web site coordinator.

RJ with a very patient Oliver.

Kiwi coils for all - then short rope travel with a transition into 5th class climbing.

Alex starting belay plate discussion.

Derek - operates our MMG Vermont Programs and his full time work is the Middlebury College Outdoor Program Director.

Phil demonstrating a variety anchor configurations.

Lisa with Oliver representing MMG in his logo hat.

The entire day was fun and informative. I want to thank each of the staff for taking their time to get together.

Art Mooney

Red Rocks in November

2011-11-04T12:35:00.002-04:00

I left behind a foot of snow in New Hampshire for a trip to red Rocks with Linden the first week in November. Although this was a personal trip, I wanted to share some photos of the great climbing at Red Rocks to encourage MMG guests to get in touch with Art for a trip. There are few guides alive who have spent as much time at Red Rocks as Art!! Every suggestion he made to me for my first trip was "spot on!"

The view of Pine Creek, Juniper, and Oak Creeks Canyons (right to left) from the sport climbing crag, The Magic Bus.

There are many wonderful sports crags at Red Rocks to warm up on or end your day on. Here, Linden raps off of a great 5.8 sport route on big, black plate-like structures on The Panty Wall. We warmed up here before heading to a 550 foot, 5 pitch, 5.6 trad route, Geronimo.

This is Linden on the arete part of the long second pitch of Geronimo (note huge chicken heads in the rock).

Another amazing long route we did was Cat in the Hat. This 6-7 pitch 5.6 route is on Mescalito, the smaller, triangular peak in the right center of the top photo. Each pitch was so memorable, making me think that it was well named...referencing Dr. Suess was perfect for this totally fun route!

If you haven't climbed at Red Rocks, it is a must. I think I have a new favorite rock climbing location, and the weather is especially good there when it can be a little ify here in New Hampshire, like during late fall or early spring.

Richard, MMG

Aubrey - Sending at Rumney!!!

2011-11-03T06:50:00.005-04:00

The rock season may be winding down but this is not the case for Aubrey. Its early in November and he is climbing at his best. The hope is for a few more rock sessions before winter ice season sets in. The key components to maintaining a high level of rock climbing is consistency on the rock and training while at home. Aubrey is doing this as he climbs in NH frequently and trains on his home boulder wall at home. He also follows Eric Horst's advice about training and a proper diet to climb hard.

Yesterday we climbed at Rumney. We were pleasantly surprised with the dry rock and the quick melting of snow it was all gone. Aubrey and climbed ten pitches up to 5.10d. We had more energy to climb but ran out of daylight.

Awesome day at the crag!!!

Aubrey getting the day going on sunny dry rock.

The textured face leading up to the Bonehead Roof.

Hippos on Parade a very nice 5.9 at Rumney.

Aubrey starting up the Holderness Arete 5.10d in the afternoon light.

Steep and technical movements while climbing on the Arete.

Our warm down was the Holderness Crack - Rumney's finest 5.8 crack.

Thank's to Aubrey.

Art Mooney

First sticks of the season!!!

2011-11-02T07:33:00.006-04:00

I love this time of year. You can be climbing rock one day and onto ice the next, or even in the same day. I didn't get a chance to climb as much as I would have liked this summer; with a new baby in the house, I've been spending some time at home. However, Saturday (Oct 29th), I got a chance to get out. I'd been watching the temperatures up high all week, and new there was ice to be had. I got an early start, and enjoyed my 1st time up on Mount Washington since last Spring.

The sun sneaking over Wildcat from Huntington.

First sticks of the season on Pinnacle Gully.

2nd pitch of Pinnacle Gully.

Arguably things aren't quite "in" but enjoyable climbing.

I had the rare opportunity to top out into a breathlessly calm Alpine Garden, with Blue skies, bright sun, and near silence. I'm sure there will be some more days of rock to be had, but I'm looking forward to Ice Season!

Mike

MMG Guide

Brand Marketing with Steve Cody

2011-10-30T21:03:00.005-04:00

My good friend, Steve Cody of Peppercom joined me at the Gunks for a weekend of climbing. Steve and I had an exciting time climbing at the Trapps on Friday. The high point was an ascent of Madam G's the striking two pitch overhanging route.

While he was here he also spoke about brand marketing to the AMGA board of directors and others.

Climbing with Steve is always a pleasure, and on this trip I also enjoyed his presentation which was inspirational and motivating.

Steve on pitch one of Madam G's.

Steve speaking to the BOD of the AMGA.

Thank you Steve.

Art Mooney

AMGA - IFMGA certified guide

Rock Climbing in the Gunks - New York

2011-10-26T07:31:00.003-04:00

Our first day at the Gunks was truly amazing. Blue skies and cool temps created perfect conditions for climbing the south east facing wall at the Trapps. Terry and I climbed all day to take advantage of these conditions. Looks like another wet system is coming in for the next few days.

View of the mile long Trapps.

Sky Top from our first belay on Madam G's.

Terry enjoying the steep climbing at the Gunks.

Check out this airy rappel.

Terry just cleared a roof on the steep High Exposure Buttress.

Art Mooney

Another fine weekend on the rocks!!!

2011-10-23T18:38:00.009-04:00

I enjoyed a great weekend at Rumney with Amy and Jeff on Saturday then Peter and Christina on Sunday. The rock was cold in the early morning but did warm up by mid day. It was a very busy weekend at the crag, lots of folks are getting the last good climbing in of the season. Get it while you can as winter is approaching quickly.

Jeff attending to the lower of Amy.

Amy practicing the figure of eight knot.

Amy after completing her first climb at Rumney Rocks.

Jeff cruising up Glory Jeans at the Parking Lot Wall.

Good times at the crag.

Amy starting up Bolt Line in the Meadows.

Christina lowering down Bolt Line on a sunny morning at Rumney Rocks.

Christina working out the crux of Rise and Shine 5.7.

The starting moves of Glory Jeans at Rumney.

Peter and Christina at Rumney Rocks New Hampshire.

I enjoyed the weekend with two new and two previous guests of MMG. Hopefully this weather will continue and stretch the rock season into November.

Art Mooney

Lead Climbing Clinic with Holly and Paul.

2011-10-19T06:29:00.007-04:00

Holly, Paul and I had a challenging and fun two day climbing experience touring around Rumney Rocks. The goal was to refresh movement and technical skills on a variety of sport and traditional routes while top roping and leading. On our first day we climbed at the Meadows area then on day 2 we climb up at the top at Jimmy Cliff. The Meadows was warm and sunny and our experience at Jimmy was windy and blustery. Over the two days Holly and Paul both led a variety of routes and we also worked on movements skills on some challenging climbs.

Holly leading Paul to the top of Jimmy Cliff. Holly is belaying Paul directly of the anchor and is able to extend herself to see Paul climbing below.

Paul working out the textured slab moves on the route called Truth In Advertising 5.7+.

Holly lowering Paul with the Gri Gri.

Paul racking up some mileage belaying me up to the anchor on top of pitch one Clip a Dee Doo Dah.

Holly leading a fine crack on Jimmy Cliff.

View from the top of the Baker River Valley, Rumney Rocks NH.

Thank to Paul and Holly.

Art Mooney

Cathedral Ledge with Tess

2011-10-16T18:12:00.004-04:00

The weather finally broke on Saturday. The recent rainfall wasn't going to keep us from climbing. Tess and I met in the morning and climbed at Cathedral Ledge for the day. We enjoyed perfect granite cracks under classic autumn skies surrounded by colorful foliage. We were rewarded with some dry rock, great views, and a heroic top-out!

Above are a few shots of Tess on the classic, "Funhouse"

We then linked "Black Lung" an awesome 5.8 pitch into the popular "Upper Refuse"

Our last climb "Toecrack," is one of the best pitches around, here's Tess at the belay with the "Prow" in the background.

Tess - Thank you for a great day!

Matt Ritter

MMG Guide

Jimmy Cliff & Bonsai Crag At Rumney Rocks!

2011-10-14T07:45:00.007-04:00

Aubrey and I climbed at the Jimmy Cliff on Wednesday. It's a great place to get up high and see the views of the Baker River Valley. Aubrey's climbing and foliage was at the peak of the season. We climbed all the routes at Jimmy and then headed down to Bonsai to sample a couple of the steep overhanging routes to complete our workout for the day.

The weather has been a mixed bag for the past few weeks. From the photos you can see there is plenty of warm dry rock to climb. Most of the rains have been off to the west and south keeping Rumney in good shape. October is a prime time to get out and climb.

A crisp, bright morning at the Baker River Valley.

Aubrey getting warmed up for a Fistful of Dollars 5.8.

Me leading the technical arete called Lonesome Dove 5.10a.

Aubrey working the stemming moves on To Love, Honor and Belay 5.9.

The Hammond Organ 5.10d at Jimmy Cliff - Rumney Rocks NH.

Aubrey cruising up the opening moves of War and Peace 5.9+.

The best view at Rumney from the top of Orange Crush Cliff.

Thanks Aubrey it was another great day on the rock with you.

Art Mooney

Top Rope Management & Self Rescue Clinic

2011-10-13T07:25:00.007-04:00

Rebecca and Alan are headed out for a climbing trip to Acadia in the next few weeks. The climbing in Acadia in quite unique with the single pitch routes above the crashing surf. One question was what if a climber could not get up the route? To ensure proper techniques were used we decided to review and practice Top Managed Rope Systems and Self Rescue Techniques.

The warm temps, blue skies, and peak foliage brought climbers out in full force. We joined in on the fun and had a great day working on techniques then climbing a few of the steep challenging routes at the Main Cliff and the Meadows Area.

Rebecca tying off a belay plate with a mule knot and overhand back up.

This is a prussik hitch which works in both directions. Rebecca is setting up a 3 to 1 raising system using the prussik and a Gri Gri belay device.

Alan setting up a dropped loop raising system for Rebecca.

Beautiful warm day on the rock.

Alan working the tough technical moves on Gold Bug - Main Cliff.

Rebecca enjoying the steep Holderness Crack at the Meadows.

The foliage was at its peak this past weekend. What a great time to be out in the mountains or on the rocks.

Thanks to Rebecca & Alan

Art Mooney

Vermont SPI Assessment

2011-10-12T20:03:00.021-04:00

We've had some spectacular fall weather here in Vermont for the last week or so, providing perfect conditions for last weekend's American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Assessment. Candidates for SPI certification must demonstrate a wide range of skills. Here, having constructed a solid top rope anchor, Kathleen safely lowers herself down below the extended masterpoint of her anchor using a Gri Gri and one end of the climbing rope. Note the catastrophe knot in the rope beneath her. If something were to go terribly wrong, she's backed herself up well. Certified SPIs are not restricted to traditional base managed top roping sites. They must be proficient at working in top managed environments as well. Mike is providing an attentive belay with a Gri Gri clipped directly to the anchor. As is probably apparent by now, the Gri Gri is an indespensible instructional tool.Sometimes, routes are best set up for instructional purposes by leading up to a fixed anchor, so good traditional leading skills are an essential part of the SPI toolbox. Kathleen gives a thorough double check of the belay chain...Then hauls the rope up a stellar pitch for us to enjoy!

Not to be outdone, Mike gets in a fine lead of his own...
And since what goes up must come down, provides us with a nice rappel refresher lesson on the ground.
Solid instructor that he is, Mike then immediately provides an opportunity to apply and solidify the skills he's just taught, and we soon find ourselves on our way up to a ledge high on the cliff... from where he executes a clean and efficient belayed rappel descent.
Congratulations to Mike and Kathleen, and thanks for an enjoyable two days!

Derek Doucet
MMG

The Red River Gorge

2011-10-03T08:52:00.009-04:00

Over the years I have heard about how good the climbing is at Red River Gorge in Kentucky. Terry and I were able to make the journey to find out for ourselves. We took some time off and traveled 16.5 hours to this sandstone crag. I should say crags because the place is huge with over 1600 documented routes of all types at 20+ different locations within a short drive of our camp. The news is yes this place is awesome and I can not wait to return!

The routes are steep and long - this is a 10.c with large plates to grasp on the upper wall.

Steep is the word as you can see. Pockets and huecos make climbing possible on these overhung routes.

Not much going on in Slade Kentucky, this post office is in the general store.

Great holds on this 11.a route at the Gallery Wall.

Oil - this is an old well pump we came upon along the way to the classic route Amarillo Sunset.

Muir Valley - has a unique way to keep folks on the right route.

Terry enjoying good rock on a warm sunny day.

Plenty of holds on this textured face climb.

Cracks galore - The Red has plenty of sport routes and some of the finest crack pitches around.

Lago Lindas campground - good place to have a quiet nights rest.

Art Mooney

Moby Grape - Spectacular day in Franconia Notch NH.

2011-09-22T06:21:00.006-04:00

What a day! Colbalt blue skies, warm temps, light breeze, and fall colors in the works. Rock climbing at its finest in NH. Early in the day Aubrey and I approached the notch in a thick fog with slightly wet roads. The NOAA forecast was good but you never know especially in the mountains. When we reached Lincoln we broke out of the fog a the mountains were in the clear. Today was a photo day for sure.

Cannon in the clear.

View of our wandering rock climb Moby Grape.

Aubrey climbing clean cracks below the triangle roof.

Aubrey cruising on the mid section of the route.

Thin cracks lead to blank slabs on the upper pitches.

We chose Kurts Corner for a nice quality variation on the final pitch.

Five Ten - Guide Tennies Shoes -great comfortable choice for moderate crack and slab climbing.

Textured granite covered with lime green lichen.

The seasons are changing quickly at the higher elevations.

The Moby Grape kit.

Thanks Aubrey it was great to get together and climb again.

Art Mooney

Vertigo - A Classic Rock Climb on Cannon!

2011-09-19T06:49:00.002-04:00

It was an absolutely perfect weekend for rock climbing in New Hampshire. It does not get any better spending Saturday on Whitehorse and Sunday on Cannon. Jerry and I continued on with our season by climbing the prize routes in the area. Vertigo was next in line on Cannon. Vertigo has to be one of the finest 5.9+ crack and slab climbs anywhere. It's a steep climb with clean cut granite cracks that range from tight fingers to hands, two thoughtful textured friction slabs, and the exciting the pendulum swing on the second pitch. We enjoyed the entire route - all the variety keeps the climbing interesting and challenging for the entire length of the route..

Cannons talus approach - see the Vertigo area above Jerry. Try to find the Half Moon Crack.

Jerry entering the 5.8 corner after the pendulum swing.

The crux pitch - you climb the tight finger crack and the corner at 5.9+.

Wide cracks high on the third pitch.

I opted for the Crescent Moon variation on the last pitch. This pitch has it all - it starts with a friction traverse, works into a lieback, then a steep finger and hand crack. Awesome!

Jerry climbing the final moves into the sheltered belay cave on pitch 4. The rock quality is best on the first 4 pitches so we descended from here.

It was truly a great weekend on the rock with Jerry.

Art Mooney

Whitehorse - Excellent Fall Rock Climbing!

2011-09-17T19:18:00.004-04:00

Jerry is back fro the Alps and ready for Sendtember and Rocktober in NH. Today we picked of the gems at the South Buttress of Whitehorse. A sunny day with cool dry conditions made for some excellent face and crack climbing. Enjoy the photos of Hotter than Hell, Inferno, and Short Order.

Jerry on pitch one of Hotter than Hell.

The crux headwall - Hotter than Hell 5.9.

Beautiful fingers and hand cracks on Inferno.

Fun times on Whitehorse.

Jerry on the steep sharp layback on top of Short Order.

Another great climbing day with Jerry.

Art Mooney

AMGA SPI Course

2011-09-15T21:10:00.003-04:00

It seems like late summer/early fall is often guide training season. While Art is working AMGA Rock Instructor Courses, some others are running AMGA Single Pitch Instructor courses. This past weekend I ran such a course in some of the most perfect late summer weather I have experienced in a long time. Especially during a guide training course, we are usually good for at least one day of rain. Three individuals joined me for an excellent course exploring all of the technical options that exist for an instructor to run in a single pitch setting. Additionally Massey Teel of Seneca Rocks Climbing School, joined me to observe, as part of his process of becoming an SPI Director.

The AMGA SPI Course s a 27 hour course that includes a comprehensive look at the world of climbing instruction in a single pitch setting. With an emphasis on risk mitigation, education, streamlined technical skills, it provides an individual with a wealth of knowledge to utilize in their professional climbing practice.

Massey providing Direct Instruction

Lowering!

Belaying with the new GriGri II from an extended master point.

Want to find out more about the SPI Course or want to set up a private course for your group? Call or e-mail us. Happy CLIMBING! Enjoy the rest of 'Send-tember'; 'Rock-tober' is up next.

Cheers,

MMG

AMGA Guide Training

2011-09-09T20:13:00.007-04:00

The fall AMGA guide training courses have started in various locations around the country. Alain and I are teaching the AMGA Rock Instructor Course to four folks from New York, Vermont, New Hampshire and Michigan. Our course venue is the traditional climbing areas of Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway. There are a variety of multi pitch friction, crack and face routes which are on these solid granite cliffs just outside of the town center. The first two days were a bit wet so we instructed clinics on guiding techniques under the Cathedral Roof. Today the sun came out and dried off the rock allowing us to climb the runout slab routes at Whitehorse. Our next days will be climbing the cracks at Cathedral Ledge. Enjoy the few photos of the first few days of the course.

Alain talking about protection and anchors on the first day of the course.

A sampling of cracked rusted and broken pitons remove at the cliffs in the area.

Alain teaching anchoring techniques at the Cathedral Cave.

Mark guiding Andrea up the classic route called Sliding Board.

Mark applying newly learned descending techniques from the thread belay below Wavelength.

Keith guiding Alain and Anton on a variation to Wavelength.

The Mt Washington Valley getting ready to burst in fall colors.

Art Mooney

Summer like conditions on Cannon.

2011-09-04T17:42:00.004-04:00

Today it was summer time conditions on cannon. There is a slight hint of changing colors in the high country and I expect fall colors to start appearing in the next few weeks. Wayne and I started our approach in the mid morning hours and I expected to find Cannon quite busy on this Labor Day Weekend. Not so - we walked right up to Reppy's and had the climb to ourselves. This was the same for Union Jack and Vertigo. We ended up climbing these three high quality crack climbs without any delays. It was an awesome day on Cannon for sure.

First colors changes on the talus approach.

Wayne starting up Reppy's Crack.

The high quality Union Jack.

The first wide crack pitch on Vertigo.

These Five Tens are my favorite all day shoes.

Great times on Cannon with Wayne.

Art Mooney

AMGA Rock Instructor Exam

2011-08-30T17:28:00.002-04:00

Crack Attack at Cathedral!!!

2011-08-25T06:53:00.006-04:00

Aubrey and I had an adventurous day of crack climbing at Cathedral Ledge. Our day started on the north end area on the Corner. This 5.8 pitch offered varied crack and face holds up a 50 meter corner and proved to be an excellent warm up climb for us. The next stop was the Liger 5.10a - a slabby start leads to a steep finger crack with the classic rounded top out. We rappeled the route and ended up looking at the base of the route called They Died Laughing. How could we pass by this fine looking finger and hand crack.

For our afternoon we decided to climb a full length route to the top. With the 5.8 range in mind Bombardment and Black LUng were the obvious choices. We got into the groove and cruised up the lower left wall then up to Black Lung then the top. Toping out at 4pm with a very full day of crack climbing behind us.

The Prow Area on Cathedral Ledge.

The Corner - a very scrappy looking but fine 5.8 pitch of climbing.

The Liger - steep finger cracks with rounded footholds.

The steep finish of They Died Laughing.

Aubrey on the crux moves of Black Lung.

Aubrey topping out on Upper Refuse.

Thank you Aubrey for a great day on Cathedral.

Art Mooney

Whitehorse and Cathedral in a Day.

2011-08-18T06:51:00.007-04:00

Mike traveled to North Conway New Hampshire with his family this week. Storyland was the mandatory first stop with rock climbing coming into the mix of activities next. Whitehorse would be the perfect place to introduce Jackson and Mylee to the longer routes on and exposed cliff. It was a pleasure to see Mike and his kids climbing side by side up the slabs. The kids held up very well but did turn towards the pool after many laps on Sea of Hole and then the Beginner Route.

Mike and I ate a quick lunch then headed over to Cathedral for the afternoon. We only had a few hours but this would be enough time to get to the top. We quickly climbed Bombardment then climb over to Black Lung and Upper Refuse. The cliffs were busy but we were able to snake through the parties and keep to our time plan. Mike made it back to his hotel in time for dinner with his family.

Jackson and Mike on approach to Sea of Holes.

Jackson learning a new technique - slab climbing.

Mylee and Mike climbing side by side on Whitehorse.

A comfortable Mylee showing us good form on the slabs.

Jackson smearing his sticky rubber shoes on the slippery granite.

All are tired but happy - the next stop is the pool and waterslide.
.

The afternoon session started with Mike on Bombardment.

Mike and I on the upper belay station of Refuse.

Mike topping out on Cathedral Ledge.

Thanks to Mike and his family - it was great day on two cliffs with them.

Art Mooney

New Hampshire's Presidential Traverse

2011-08-15T09:04:00.018-04:00

The Presidential Traverse is a strenuous and sometimes dangerous trek over the Presidential Range of New Hampshire’s White Mountains. Contained almost entirely in the 750,000-acre White Mountain National Forest the Presidential Range is a string of summits in excess of 4,000 feet. To complete the traverse, one must begin at either the northern or southern terminus of the Presidential Range and finish at the opposing end.

This weekend I led a team of five across the Presidential Range. Steve, Chris, Adel, Mark and Yasser came up from Jersy to experience this 20+ mile rugged journey. We climbed the traverse in three days using the AMC huts as our overnights lodges. Friday was the toughest day as the temps hovered around the 42 degree mark, mist and rain fell during the day, and 40 mph winds pushed us around on the summits. Needless to say we were all challenged as it felt like we were climbing in early winter not the mid August sun and heat we were expecting.

Each afternoon we were welcomed at each hut by the croo. The croo always had hot soup and drinks ready. We all relaxed with soup and wine then ate a hearty dinner. Morning came quickly with breakfast served at 7am sharp. All the huts were full to capacity, Madison 58 guests, Lakes 90 guests, and Mizpah over 50. The AMC croo did an excellent job cooking and entertaining climbers from all over the country.

The team with fresh legs headed out on the Valley Way Trail.

The forest felt tropical on our first day. We all sweated our way up in the thick humid air.

The first view of Mt Washington from Mt Madison.

Climbing to the summit of Madison in the late afternoon.

The team starting out on a cold wet morning from the Madison Hut.

Mid day along the Gulf Side Trail.

On the summit of New Hampshires highest peak Mt Washington 6288 ft.

From the summit we traveled on the The Crawford Path. This path is main route on the southern part of the trip and the Crawford path is the oldest continually maintained trail in the US.

One of the AMC croo's job is transporting the heavy loads of food and waste to the trailheads.

A view of the Lake of the Clouds Hut from the summit cone of Mt Washington.

The toughest summit on this trip may have been this one Mt Eisenhower.

Mizpah - the Watchtower or Lookout.

Fresh baked bread at the Mizpah Hut.

Evening tunes with Yasser.

This was a great New Hampshire mountain experience. Thanks to Steve and the team for joining me on this very tough but fun traverse of the Presidential Peaks.

Art Mooney

Back at it on Cannon.

2011-08-09T16:40:00.003-04:00

Ken and I had a great day on Cannon. I climbed with Ken on the ice and it was time to get out on some rock. We were treated to some very good weather as we climbed the Whitney Gilman Ridge. Our early start proved to be he right choice as other parties had the same idea. Thanks to Ken for climbing with MMG it was a fantastic day on the rock.

Mammut - Top of Europe - Jungfraujoch!!!

2011-08-07T07:58:00.007-04:00

Mammut's 150 year Anniversary Basecamp Event was held this past week in the Jungfraujoch area in Switzerland. There were over 100 mountain guides, journalists, and Mammut staff from many countries. The trip started in Zurich with events held along the way in Interlaken, Kleine Scheidegg and the Base camp area. One of the high points was the groups climb of the Monch and Jungfrau Peaks. The staff at Mammut was awesome - they went all out to make this a top notch anniversary event.

The well organized basecamp area. There were 150 Hilleberg tents, a first aid tent, and two large igloo style tents for the meals and gatherings.

Mountain guides nearing the summit of the Monch.

Looking down the knife edge ridge on the Monch.

The side walk to the sky.

Early morning sunrise over the distant peaks.

Thanks to Mammut for a fantastic experience in the Swiss Alps.

Art Mooney

Rock Climbing - Down East Style!!!

2011-07-21T18:41:00.004-04:00

After our climb of Katahdin on the Sidewalk in the Sky (Knife Edge Trail) Steve, Chris and I headed down to Acadia for a couple of days rock climbing, and enjoying the seacoast and the town of Bar Harbor. While there we climbed multi pitch routes on the Precipice then ventured over to the Otter Cliff area for a half day of climbing above the water on sea cliffs. I always enjoy spending a few days on the Island each summer. Its a refreshing experience.

Wildwood Camp July 19+20

2011-07-20T19:51:00.003-04:00

For the last few years the Wildwood Camp has climbed with Mooney Mountain Guides for two days. On the first day we teach the students about climbing, belaying and rappelling and give them lots of time to get in some "mileage" on good beginner routes. What better place for this than Rumney!!

Here is Kala finishing a belayed rappel while others are either belaying or getting ready for their next route near Dirtigo and the Whimpy Gilman.

On the second day we choose a multi-pitch route to give the students the experience of climbing a larger cliff and then descending using the rappelling skills acquired on day one. The next two shots show Bethany and Julian nearing the end of pitch one of Lady and the Tramp at the Clippity Do Da Slab at Rumney...

Here is my rope team at the top of Lady and the Tramp feeling pretty proud!!

Thanks, Wildwood!!! Matt , Todd and I enjoyed climbing with you (and dunking in the Baker River after a warm day two!!).

Richard, MMG

Climbing in Maine?

2011-07-15T05:11:00.003-04:00

Most folks come to Maine for its beautiful coastline and Acadia National Park. Steve, Chris and I came for both Katahdin and Acadia. First we traveled to the northern section of Maine for a climb of Mount Katahdin. This 5267 foot peak is rugged and remote surrounded by hundreds of miles of the great north woods. Our climb was a very tough one - 11.5 miles in length, and 11 hours on the trail. We choose a direct line up the Cathedral Trail to the summit, as the skies cleared we crossed mile long Knife's Edge Trail to Pamola Peak, then descended the rugged Heylon Tayor Trail. The entire day was amazing adventure for the three of us.

Chris and Steve with clouds covering the summit of Katahdin.

Steve climbing the steep section of the Cathedral Trail.

On the top!!!

The skies opened up as we crossed the Knifes Edge.

Great times with Steve and Chris.

Thanks to both,

Art Mooney

The Northwest Crags Area.

2011-07-07T06:28:00.003-04:00

Although it is a bit of a hike to get there, the Hinterlands hosts a number of great routes. Aubrey and I ventured up there to climb two very wild classics - Jolt 5.10a and Dolt 5.10a.

Jolt - named after the soft drink climbs a wild fin of rock for a full 30 meters and Dolt climbs the opposite side of this unusually thin fin of rock. Both routes will test the length of your 60 meter rope so be sure to close the system. We enjoyed the spectacular climbing and did not see another person all day at the North West Crag area.

It was hard to get the right photo but if you look I am up high on the fin of Dolt.

I just landed on the deck and the stopper knot touched the Smart Belay Device.

Aubrey on the exposed fin of Jolt.

To complete our day we worked on Yoda. Another one of Rumneys steep overhanging climbs.

Aubrey reaching for the slopers on Yoda.

Thanks Aubrey for a great day.

Art Mooney

Bolton Valley Vermont

2011-07-01T08:48:00.003-04:00

Intro to Rock Lesson- Bolton, VT

Today Janna and I went to Bolton, Vermont for an intro lesson in technical rock climbing on some of the best rock Vermont has to offer. This was Janna's first day climbing outside on fifth class rock, and we lucked out with a day of sun and low humidity. We began with some nuts and bolts at Lower West Bolton, covering different climbing gear, crag safety and proper belay technique. Janna is a quick learner, and mastered the B.U.S. method of belaying in no time. After practicing some movement skills at the base of the cliff, Janna was cruising up a fun 5.5 slab. We continued working on movement skills, then rounded the day out at Upper West Bolton logging some more laps on the stone. Janna's determination was almost as impressive as her naturally precise footwork-a solid start to many more climbing adventures.

Thanks Janna for a great day out at the crag!

Derrek Anderson

MMG Guide

The Forest Service and RCA at work.

2011-06-30T07:05:00.003-04:00

There are many new upgrades at Rumney this season. A big Thank You is in order to the Forest Service and the Rumney Climbers Association as they have been responsible for this work. The parking lot, extensive trail work, stairs and anchors are all being talk about by the visiting climbers and locals. I overheard one group saying that Rumney is one of the finest crags they ever climbed at.

Main cliff parking lot.

Trail along the road to the 5.8 crag.

The leisure approach to the 5.8 crag.

New quick clip anchors on many of the routes.

Summer is in full swing, the days are long and the rock is prime for climbing.

Art Mooney

Whitney Gilman

2011-06-29T20:19:00.007-04:00

Monday was a perfect day to be climbing on Cannon. It was the first sunny day in a week in Franconia Notch. Marc and I had made plans about a month ago to climb the Whitney Gilman on this day and conditions and the weather were in our favor. It was surprisingly busy on the climb with a solo ropeless climber, a roped solo climber and three parties of two. The ridge had most of the traffic as we saw only one other party on the cliff.

Cannon - over 1 mile long along the base.

Marc - getting fitter with his training for a Matterhorn Climb.

Doubled up protection on one of the traverses.

Marc after the exposed pipe pitch.

Jim Gagne - shot this photo of Marc and I on the crux pitch. Jim was shooting from the Lafayette Ridge well over a mile away.

Marc on the crest of the ridge on pitch 5.

Another great climb on Cannon. Thanks to Marc.

Art Mooney

Multi Pitch Training - Prep for the AMGA Exam.

2011-06-23T06:13:00.007-04:00

Paul from Drexel University came up to NH to spend a couple of days guiding Terry and I around Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge. Paul is preparing for the 6 day AMGA Rock Instructor Exam scheduled this September in NH. During the two days I picked the popular moderate routes which gave Paul a tour of both cliffs. Our first day we spent on the South Buttress and Central Slabs of Whitehorse and on day two we climbed on Cathedral Ledge.

Paul preparing the ropes for the descent from the top of Whitehorse. Here Paul used a pre rigged rappel for us.

Paul on the mid cliff anchor station. At this station Paul lowered Terry and set me up via a belayed rappel.

It was getting late and we wanted a few more pitches. Here Paul used a two roped simul belay system for speed.

Terry on the clean but slippery slabs of Whitehorse.

Paul on the 5.8 crack called Bombardment.

Good rope management is key for a smooth running system.

Paul leading Terry and I up Retaliation. This route is difficult so Paul chose to belay us one at a time - called Caterpillar Style.

In two days I was able to give Paul a refresher of guiding skills and a good tour of both cliffs. He now has a feel of the area and the climbing which will benefit him when he comes back to take his exam.

Thanks to Paul for the great guiding he provided Terry and I for two days.

Art Mooney

Single Pitch Instructor Refresher Training

2011-06-18T18:31:00.008-04:00

Today I worked with Ian refreshing is skills on management of Single Pitch Instructor Terrain. We set up a variety of technical scenarios the SPI instructor would use when instructing in single pitch type of terrain. Munter Hitches with mule knots, 3 to 1 raises, assisted raises, counter balance rappels, and a pick off of a stranded climber are some of the techniques we reviewed and practiced multiple times.

The Munter Hitch with a Mule Knot and Overhand finish.

Ian making a one handed clove hitch.

The Gri Gri with a redirect to lower a climber.

The classic Z or 3 to 1 raising system.

The assisted raise - a 3 to 1 advantage.

Ian getting ready for some climbing to end the day.

Its always a good idea to refresh previously learned skills and then learn a few new skills.

Thanks to Ian

Art Mooney

Whitney Gilman Ridge a Cannon Classic.

2011-06-16T19:13:00.002-04:00

Today was a blue bird day with a light breeze on Cannon. Jed and Mark arrived in New England the previous evening at 11pm. They drove up from Logan in the late hours and set a bivi near the climbers parking lot. In the morning they were ready and excited to climb. We chose the Whitney Gilman as their first route on Cannon. . Jed and Mark had one day on Cannon and the climbing and conditions were nearly perfectI am sure they will be back.

The Whitney Gilman in the morning light.

Mark and Jed just above the pipe pitch.

Mark working towards the knife edge arete high on the route.

Jed on the final corner pitch.

Good times on Cannon - thanks to Jed and mark.

Art Mooney

Moby Grape - Cannon's Best 5.8

2011-06-15T17:01:00.004-04:00

Its been a tough spring but finally we had a sunny day in New Hampshire. The best choice was to get up high on Cannon. Jerry and I chose Moby Grape for our long multi pitch route. Conditions were excellent, mostly dry rock, temps in the 70's and a varied route up the center of the cliff.

Reppy's is finished - now its time to climb!

The wet lieback entrance to the chimney pitch.

Mid way on the route the Whitney Gilman in the background.

Jerry climbing clean cracks up to the triangle roof.

Pitch 4 one of the best 5.7 pitches in New Hampshire.

Yes there were some problems today - as they say suns out - bugs out.

Jerry entering Kurts Corner.

Happy on the summit slabs of Cannon.

Great day on Cannon - thanks to Jerry,

Art Mooney

Hot and Steamy Day

2011-06-11T07:11:00.005-04:00

It was hot and steamy by mid week in New Hampshire. Thursday evening we had a powerful evening storm which forced the warm tropical air out of the area. The evening storm did caused lots of damage taking down trees, power lines and closing the area schools on Friday. One thing about the weather around here it can have wild changes from day to day.

Aubrey and I went to Rumney at the height of the heat wave. We climbed routes in the shade of the forest. We do like the scrappy trad routes so we searched out a few of Rumneys trad style climbs. Cold Shoulder 5.9+ at New Wave Wall is one of these lines - often its wet. One climbs up the obvious chimney slot then turns a small roof into hand jambs and finishes up a wild strenuous layback. We took this one on as a project for the morning - cool air was venting out of the crack and there was plenty on wet hand jambs complete the challenge. Cold Shoulder was first climbed with traditional gear in 1980 by Tim Gotwols.

Our tour took us to a another area Below the New Wave. Two climbs here are moderate in grades. The steep lieback crack Son of Sammy 5.8+ and the steeper face of Couch Potato 5.9

are quick to spit one into the air if you do not have the right position.

To complete our workout we worked lines at the Main Cliff area. Two routes Scene of the Crime, Armed and Dangerous are Rumneys early climbs - put up in 1990 by Tom Bowker. Another very early route Metamorphas 5.8 was put up by Ted Hammond in 1982. All the routes were led with tradional gear and minimal bolts on the first ascents. The retro bolting has since made these lines very popular.

By days end Aubrey and I had a very good day. We challenged ourselves with numerous 5.10 routes and a few wet scrappy 5.9+.

Aubrey finding the balance on Son of Sammy.

Using varied techniques to gain ground on the flared chimney.

Aubrey after climbing Cold Shoulder 5.9+ at New Wave.

The route Scene of the Crime - Does this mean bolting was a crime?

Here is my friend Joe on the opening move of Big Easy. Joe guides in the Conway area for

Synott Mountain Guides.

Rumney is my favorite sport area. I am very fortunate to have this gem so close to my home. If a need a trad climb these days Cannon and Conway are just an hour away.

Art Mooney

Mileage on the Stone.

2011-06-05T17:30:00.002-04:00

We have been waiting for a weekend like this. Cool night and clear warm days a perfect match for good climbing at Rumney. Marc joined me on Saturday to get mileage on the stone. We climbed at a variety of crags until our finger tips were turning pink. Our next stop is Cannon for mileage on the alpine rock. A long time guest Mike came up this Sunday. He made the drive from CT early in the day so we could get out and crank some routes at Rumney for the day. We too climbed at a variety of areas and piled on route after route. By days end Mike ended up with a good solid workout on the steep schist at Rumney Rocks.

Mike starting the day.

Marc cruising up the stone on two laps at the Jimmy Cliff routes.

Marc using full body to squeeze up the flaired chimney of Nuthatch.

Mike smearing his way up the arete.

Mike (the coach) climbing solid.

Good times.

Mike enjoying one of the obscure routes at Rumney.

Thanks Marc and Mike for great weekend.

Art Mooney

The Gunks

2011-06-04T06:09:00.005-04:00

Terry and I decided to embrace the heat wave last week and traveled south to New York. Our destination was the Gunks for a few days of steep climbing. The Gunks is a small cliff in height but the steep nature of this cliff makes up for it. The routes are quite challenging and one feels very exposed while climbing roofs and cracks up the vertical or overhanging walls.

Celebrating at the Mountain Brauhaus Restaurant and Lounge.

Terry enjoying the steep face of Son of Easy 5.8.

Beautiful rock on the route - City Lights.

Gear placement in the horizontal crack.

The steep lieback crack of CCK.

Climber on the exposed High Exposure route 5.6.

Roseland - a fine crack climb.

Hand jambs at the top of Shockley's Ceiling.

Hard to believe this line is rated 5.6 - Shockley's Ceiling climbs up the corners over the roofs to the top - a Gunks Classic.

The Full Pemi Traverse.

2011-06-03T06:33:00.003-04:00

If there’s one way to go after your goals it’s with hard training and perseverance. Dana has proven to have both. He has been training hard to make things happen including; long hours at work, training hard; running up and down stairs of tall buildings near his home and let’s not forget, newly married. Dana has been coming to the White Mountains and pushing himself to limits that we all have in us but choose to forget. After spending time the last few winters training he took on another step-Endurance. Climbing big mountains is not always about technique. You need strength and endurance. Big pushes of long days over difficult terrain and mixed conditions of snow, ice, mud, rain and swollen rivers - 45 miles in a couple of days in the White’s is impressive for anyone.

Dana, when you are on Denali and feel you can go no farther remember this. Franklin Roosevelt once said. When you come to the end of your rope, tie a knot and hang on.

Best of luck on Denali from the crew of MMG

Jim

Ryoko at Rumney, 5/30/11

2011-05-30T16:01:00.005-04:00

We began our day with some warm up climbs in the Dirtigo area. Ryoko's objective was to get in some mileage on routes of various styles.

Here is Ryoko in complete control of a belayed rappel...

After a route at the Jimmy Cliff, we moved up to the Crow's Nest. Here is Ryoko turning the roof crux of Little Mermaid...

Who says that there are no pure crack climbs at Rumney!! Ryoko in the Scuttlebutt chimney...

Thanks for a great day, Ryoko and good job climbing!!

Whitehorse to the Top!!!

2011-05-29T16:16:00.005-04:00

Ryoko and Terry climbed Whitehorse to the top today. This was Ryoko's first multi pitch climb on one of New Hampshires classic granite faces. We all kept a quick pace on the climb as possible thunder storms were forecasted for the area by early afternoon. We climbed the Standard Route in eight pitches and reached the top by 12:30. During the day Ryoko and Terry refreshed technical skills such as traditional anchors, gear removal, lead belaying and rope management. This route provided lots of varied mileage with climbing movements - slab, crack and some face climbing were all encountered on the route.

Our first glimpse on the cliff - Whitehorse Ledge.

Looking up from the White Mountain Hotel grounds.

Terry and Ryoko gearing up at the launching pad.

Ryoko setting up the lead belay.

Ryoko and Terry climbing together on pitch one.

The ladies keeping the rope in order - here they are separating the ropes into two stacks to remove any twists.

A simple three point anchor in solid rock with a direct belay of two ropes.

The upper pitches of the climb with the hotel and lake far below.

The sun came out for a short time on the top. A great day on Whitehorse.

Thanks to Ryoko and Terry.

Art Mooney

Stellar Day on Cannon!

2011-05-25T19:35:00.004-04:00

Cannon was the place to be today!!! Blue skies, cool breeze, no bugs, and plenty of dry rock to be found. Aubrey, Jerry, Matt and I enjoyed working the classic crack routes along the base of the cliff today. Our start was on the Duet Buttress with the 5.8 pitches of Slow and Easy and Duet. At mid day we ventured over to the Moby Grape area for a run on Reppy's Crack and the striking 5.9 layback corner on Union Jack's lower pitches. By days end we all had logged in many feet on Cannons very fine granite rock.

Rounded top outs on many of the routes.

Mammuts twilight ropes were a favorite for both parties.

Aubrey topping out on Slow and Easy.

Aubrey on our second route Duet. Here he is tackling the rounded cracks to the anchor.

Matt and Jerry on Reppy's Crack on the Moby Grape Buttress.

Aubrey hanging in on the steep 5.9 finger crack on Union Jack.

Enjoying the alpine playground!

Matt on Union Jacks best pitch.

Jerry starting up the final corner of the day - Union Jack.

Great day on the rock.

Art Mooney

Access to Dry Rock at Rumney.

2011-05-24T18:06:00.003-04:00

This morning was triple H - hazy, hot and humid. I made the call to try Rumney for the day with Jerry, Angelica and Matt. The recent rains have lessened the amount of dry rock in the area so even the routes at the Main Cliff at Rumney were seeping in the morning hours. During the day conditions improved as the sun came out and the breeze picked up drying off the routes. Even with these questionable conditions by days end we all had climbed plenty.

Jerry on Gold Digger 5.8+ our first climb of the day.

Angelica and Matt getting ready for the next climb.

Matt belaying Angelica on the Whitney Gilman Ridge at Rumney Rocks.

Jerry leading up on the sharp end.

Jerry gaining some mileage at Rumney Rocks.

We all had a good day at Rumney. The weather looks to be on a warmer - drier trend which is well needed for us northeastern climbers. I am thankful to have Rumney close by as its always a pretty good bet that you will find dry routes to climb.

Art Mooney

Yoga for Climbers

2011-05-23T14:13:00.004-04:00

I've been a regular student of yoga for the past five years or so. My feeling is that yoga helps with my flexibility, balance, power, alignment, breathing and focus. All of these certainly are needed for rock and ice climbing activities. Arm balances and inversions are two areas of yoga that I highly enjoy. These poses are quite difficult for me! It takes open shoulder, hips and a strong core to succeed. Continuing on with a regular practice is my plan and I hope that some day I will be able to invert into the following poses.

Alyssa in a hand stand - moving into a more advanced pose.

Here she is in a handstand with her back arched into the full scorpion.

Alyssa in another version. This one is the forearm balance (dolphin pose) with the back arched into the scorpion.

Alyssa came over to our house for a private yoga session. Yoga is a great activity for climbers looking to increase the balance, focus, and overall movements up the stone.

Thanks to Alyssa

www.openingpresence.com

Art Mooney

Ice, Rain, Rivers on Lafayette.

2011-05-20T07:59:00.004-04:00

This week has been a washout for sure. This stubborn low pressure system is dumping lots of water and not letting up. About a month ago Steve and Chris made plans to rock climbing in NH on Tuesday and Wednesday this week. On Tuesday we were determined to get out and climb something but the rain kept us off the stone and led us to the mountains. Packed with rain coats and pants we decided to climb to the summit of Lafayette and continue over the ridge to Haystack. This route would prove to be a solid 9+ mile mountain adventure with some very tough travel conditions. Above 3500 feet the trails turned into slushy snow with hard ice underneath, our travel slowed as we worked through these tricky sections. The rivers on the Falling Waters trail were shallow in depth but each crossing was a slippery challenge for us.

By days end we were all wet, tired and generally beat up pretty good.

Steve and Chris looking fresh on the first hour of our ascent to Lafayette.

The Greenleaf Hut is open for visitors, we stopped in for a hot cup of tea and snacks to energize us for the climb to the summit.

The snow was deep in some of the sheltered areas and bare ground above the treeline.

Wind, fog and rain - felt like were were climbing in the Scottish Highlands.

Steve in good spirits on the summit.

Chris adding another peak to his list of high points.

Each river crossing was a delicate balancing act.

The very powerful lower cascade on the Falling Waters Trail.

Thanks to Steve and Chris for great company on another good climb.

Art Mooney

Denali Training in Tuck's - May 14

2011-05-18T06:43:00.005-04:00

There's still some snow around if you're looking for it. Try Tucks if you want some. It's a great place to do some local glacier travel crevasse rescue. Dana got a chance to set packs up for pulling sleds, hauling big loads, practice self arrest techniques, work on ascending fixed lines and build some different rescue systems. As well as steep snow climbing and some crevasse rescue and of course eating a lot of great food.

Best of luck Dana. We here at MMG are looking forward to hearing about your adventure.

Jim

2011-05-16T11:08:00.067-04:00

I just wrapped up three great days teaching an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course with five enthusiastic and motivated students. The SPI course is intended for solid climbers interested in making the transition from competent recreational climber to professional climbing instructor. Certified SPIs run outdoor education and college based climbing programs, facilitate group climbing experiences, and guide and instruct clients in single pitch settings. They are trained to work from both the bottom of the crag in traditional top rope settings, and from the top when working at sea cliffs, on routes over half a rope length, or at fixed anchors only accessible by leading. A truly proficient instructor possesses a wide repertoire of technical, risk management, interpersonal, and teaching skills. The SPI curriculum addresses all of these skill sets in three very full days!

Sound anchors are the foundation of all technical systems, and begin with bomber gear and / or solid natural features. The students placed some great gear. This large wired nut is absolutely bomber!

Instructional and guiding anchors must be solid, simple and efficient. This anchor is an excellent example. It consists of two equalized and bombproof pieces of gear, and a medium sized tree (out of the frame). Note the use of static rope for easy extension, high masterpoint, and the instructor's working tether (coming off the clove hitch on the gear). The instructor also has the option of tying in to the climbing rope (not shown) and clove hitching directly to the masterpoint. About the only room for improvement here involves the munter hitch carabiner. I'd love to see its gate facing away from the rock. Still, an excellent, professional anchor!

SPIs are trained in a wide variety of assistance skills. They are taught how to ascend to a stuck climber…

...and help them descend quickly and efficiently.

They refine the surprisingly challenging skill of providing smooth, efficient, and backed-up lowers with a variety of belay methods. If you look closely, you can just see the autobloc backing up the belayer's brakehand in this munter hitch lowering system.

The Petzl Gri Gri 2 is a superb SPI tool which I highly recommend. This closeup of a clean Gri Gri lowering system shows the brake strand redirected through the blue carabiner, which keeps it in the braking orientation throughout the lower.

SPIs have a number of mechanical advantage raising systems in their toolbox. As you can imagine, hauling a stranded climber is serious business, and no time for horseplay.

Thanks to Eric, Mike, Kathleen, Austin and Andy for the hard work and a fun three days!

Derek Doucet, MMG

Troop 1 Climbs at Rumney

2011-05-15T07:36:00.005-04:00

A group of ten Boy Scouts from Troop 1 in Northboro Mass climbed at Rumney with Matt and I this past Saturday. The weather report was iffy and I was unsure about the day. We ended up climbing for the entire day at the Meadows and we had the place to ourselves. Our first goal was to have the scouts and leaders climb a variety of routes. Secondly we worked on skills required for the Scout Climbing Merit Badge. Each scout belayed numerous routes, we worked on figure eights and fishermens knots, and to end our day the scouts worked on rope coiling. The day was a success - we climbed until 4:30 and all were very satisfied with the new heights reached in the outdoor climbing world.

Whitney Gilman Ridge an Alpine Rock Route

2011-05-13T20:11:00.005-04:00

Rebcca, Alan and I climbed the Whitney Gilman on Thursday. It was an excellent day for climbing in the notch as it was warm, overcast and a light breeze. We shared the route with for other parties who had the same idea that this would be a fine day for climbing on Cannon.

The view down the Pemi Valley from the base of the route.

The Ridge from the talus field.

Rebecca and Alan warming up on the talus approach.

Two parties just ahead of our team.

Rebecca and Alan climbing cracks on the first pitch.

Spacious belay ledges on much of the route.

Rebecca and Alan on the airy 5th pitch on Whitney Gilman.

Here we are on the summit.

Snow on the upper part of the descent trail.

It was my first day on Cannon this spring. I am looking forward to spending many days there this summer it is my favorite alpine rock area.

Thanks to Rebecca and Alan for a great day on Cannon.
Art Mooney

Back at Rumney in Springtime.

2011-05-11T19:15:00.000-04:00

Its great to be back in NH after my long trip out west. Yesterday Aubrey and I got together for our first day out on the rock at Rumney. The day was generally bug free and the rains stayed south. Aubrey and I both were hungry for the rock and we climbed ten routes during the day. We spent the day on the slabs, cracks and steep faces at the Meadows area. Our goal was to get a strong start to the rock season - and thats was we did. This year Aubrey and I plan to reach new heights on the stone and NH is just the place for us. Over the season we have plans to climb at Rumney Cannon, Cathedral, Whitehorse and seek out a few new areas in New England.

Art leading up False Modesty 5.8 at the Meadows.

Aubrey working into the crux of False Modesty at Rumney.

Aubrey climbing the lieback crack to gain the beautiful 5.8 face leading up to the Bonehead Roof.

Joe of Synnot Guides at the anchor is leading a few friends around at Rumney.

Aubrey getting ready for the steep route Lies and Propaganda. 5.9

Aubrey starting up Hippos on Parade.

Aubrey on another great line - the Holderness Crack.

It was a great day at Rumney and there will be many more this season.

Thanks Aubrey

Art Mooney

Smith Rocks Update

2011-05-05T09:01:00.005-04:00

For the past week I have been enjoying some excellent climbing with amazing views of the southern Cascades - it's amazing. On this Rock Instructor Course we have been fortunate to climb many of Smiths three star classic routes. The place can be busy especially on the weekends. With an early start we usually get on our route of choice in the morning then we cruise the cliff for a spot in the afternoon. Its a great area if you are looking for a mix of traditional lines and steep pocketed sport routes.

Rumney 5/2 with Bill

2011-05-03T08:30:00.002-04:00

Bill and I were fortunate to have such an ideal day at Rumney...sun, no wind, no black flies and dry rock everywhere. Bill wanted to work on movement skills and do some leading, and Rumney is an ideal place for both. We began with some moderate climbs and then worked our way up to some harder routes. Although this was Bill's first day out this season, he climbed great and climbed 10 pitches during the day...a lot of climbing!!

After leading this pitch (Dirtigo), Bill beayed me up from the top and then set up the rappel from this stance. Great views of the Baker River Valley.

Bill following the uber-classic Junco at the Jimmy Cliff. I belayed from the top so we could practice descending skills.
Bill on the Whimpy Gilman...

Thanks for a great day, Bill!! Richard, MMG

Smith Rocks with AMGA Guides

2011-04-30T09:07:00.004-04:00

I arrived at Smith Rocks Oregon a few days ago to work a ten day AMGA program. Smith is a good venue for the AMGA's Rock instructor course. There are six guides participating and Dale and I are the instructors. To start we just had three days of clinics on technical skills along with client care and risk management discussions. Now we are headed into the movement and guided climbs portion of the course. The weather looks great for the next week, warming up each day with temps getting into the 60's.

It was a cold morning on our first day.

View of the central areas of Smith above the Crooked River.

Getting bound up in the Kiwi Coil races.

Lee making good time on the Kiwi Coil.

Moving very fast Mike is keeping his coil in workable shape.

The coil is getting smaller and smaller for Toller.

Belay practice in 3rd and 4th class terrain.

Lyle with a solid seated hip belay.

We are all having a good learning experience combined with some very fun times.

Art Mooney

IFMGA Certification

2011-04-26T10:43:00.003-04:00

Last evening I enjoyed celebrating with Pete Keane. He received the announcement of his success of the ski exam and completion of the IFMGA certification. I the photo I am placing the pin on Pete, with Dale Remsburg and Tom Hargis.

Congrat's to Pete.

Art Mooney

Denali Training

2011-04-21T01:20:00.003-04:00

Training For Denali

There’s no better way to train for a peak then right here in the White Mountains. When your goal is to climb something big and tuff like Mount McKinley, then a grueling place to start is right here in my backyard……. something called the Presidential Traverse. It’s just about everything that you would come across in most mountainous places. It’s strenuous and sometime a dangerous trek. We ran into all types on weather, Snow storms, high winds, below zero temperatures and occasionally some blue sky with a great view. Dana was one of those guys that could push through it out and complete the impossible not just complaning the "Traverse" but also push himself up and over a nine peaks.

As Marty Liquori once said “No one ever won the olive wreath with an impressive training diary” Get out there and make it happen. Dana my man, way to go

Congratulations Dana

Nice job to Dana & Jim.

Days on the AMGA Rock Guide Course

2011-04-17T09:40:00.005-04:00

This is day 6 of the ten day American Mountain Guides rock guide course. The instructional days were 8 hours but our movements days in the canyons have been from dawn to dusk. Mileage is a key component in this type of course. The more pitches and transition we do the better the learning process. Yesterday we went to the Angel Food Wall and completed two classic routes. Tunnel Vision and Group Therapy. Our total pitches was 14 with the added challenge of two difficult descents. Everyone was very happy with the long hard day.

6:30 Morning meeting with Cinnamon Rolls for the extra boost.

Angel Food Wall in the distance.

Early morning lighting is the best.

View of the approach trail from the parking lot.

Pink sky, full moon and the lights of Vegas on our final descent.

Art Mooney

The Ice Season keeps on going!!!

2011-04-16T07:48:00.004-04:00

Gotta Get Me Some.

While the boss is out in the desert enjoying the warmth of the sun. Some of us are still enjoying the winter conditions in the spring. Huntington is still holding a small amount of ice. So if you are still feeling the gotta get me some urge then you better start moving into the ravines. That’s what Paul wanted to do and Pinnacle was his goal. It won’t be around much longer so get out if you want it.

Thanks Paul for a great day.

Jim

Its mid April and Mt Washington is holding on to winter like conditions. Jim and Paul climbed Pinnacle on Friday in cold and windy weather. The overall conditions look to be pretty good even with the recent rains during the week. Looks like the ice will stay in for a another at least another weekend.

I am in Red Rocks and the weather is total opposite. Today the temps will be in the low 9o's in Vegas and a bit cooler in the canyons. A great day for rock in the west and rock or ice in the east.

Art Mooney

Sending the Rock Rescue Assessment!!!

2011-04-14T08:57:00.004-04:00

Angela and I are in Red Rocks teaching the AMGA Rock Guide Course to six guides from areas all over the US. The course is ten days in length with many off the days taking place on the long multi pitch routes in the canyons. The first day starts off with a review of skills from the previous course. Yesterday was the aspirant testing part where the guides demonstrate a good working knowledge of rescue skills. The rescue testing is a 45 minute sequence of skills. All the guides did very well completing the rescue drill in time. We spent the remainder of the day checking off the movement skills by climbing 5.10 ad 5.11 sport routes at the Cannibal Crag.

Angela teaching on our first day.

Eitan ascending the rope after a check on the mock victim.

Lyra working the ropes during the raising part of the texting.

Red Rock Guide Andrew showing us how its done.

Massey keeping a clean and tidy system.

Chris and Annie having fun after she completed her test.

The guides worked hard to get this completed. Each did a great job.

Art Mooney